Topics

1

General Airsoft / Wolverine BOLT- HPA Sniper Rifle Rules?

« on: June 12, 2016, 02:14:48 PM »

I will begin by stating that most field owners (including So Go Airsoft/The Rock) are very familiar with these concepts and are already at work putting them into practice for the safety of every player. This post is mainly for those who do not yet understand them or are confused as to why they matter.

Just as with everything, the sport of airsoft continues to evolve and innovate. What this means for field owners and game officials is that they must maintain an up-to-date ruleset to accommodate these innovations. This brings us to the Wolverine BOLT. This is an HPA powered conversion kit for bolt action rifles, meaning that the converted rifle is no longer a "springer" but is powered by an external gas source. In layman's terms, its a "polarstar'd sniper rifle". Previously, bolt action rifles were universally set at 550 FPS with a .20 gram BB. This is because a spring powered rifle would deliver an energy output that was deemed acceptable and safe with the inclusion of a 100-foot engagement distance. The concept of "joule creep" is new to many, and is not generally well understood. But facts are facts, and the physics add up. A rifle powered by High Pressure Air (and propane/green gas/CO2, to a lesser extent) is more easily able to overcome the inertia of an airsoft BB and therefore can take advantage of heavier rounds to deliver harder hits on target.  This is what "joule creep" essentially is. As the user increases the weight of the BB, it hits with more force. We all learn that Force=Mass x Acceleration in high school, so this may be contrary to your traditional line of thought. "If you increase the BB weight, then the BB slows down, and the force is the same, right?". Not exactly. While the BB does slow down, it does not slow down the same amount nor in a proportional amount between an HPA rifle and an AEG or Springer. And here lies the problem. Our system of measuring airsoft guns energy output through "FPS" is standardized for AEGs and springers. When a player with an HPA rifle plays under standard FPS limitations, he is able to deliver more force (and therefore, more pain) to other players. He is not breaking any rules, and typically does not have any bad intent. His rifle just hurts more. For this reason, joules have become a popular way to measure and limit HPA systems. Joules give us the energy carried by the BB, and can actually take BB weight into account.


I apologize for the long winded explanation, but my point is this: we need to set HPA sniper rifle limits based on joules rather than FPS. The potential for joule creep will be significant. Some game organizations have already set their limit at 435 FPS with a .32 gram BB, as I believe we should. This limit correlates with the springer fps limit of 550 FPS with a .20 gram BB, as both will deliver around 2.8 joules of force. Combined with the same 100 foot engagement distance, this results in a rifle that is both fairly limited in ability and safe for gameplay. Once again, these are not new concepts and some would argue that systems like the ManCraft HPA conversion have been around for years. The point here is, the Wolverine BOLT has the potential to become mainstream. These will be appearing at local fields and Milsim Games alike, and it is important to understand the logic behind the rulesets set for them. Feel free to post questions or other elements of discussion below.

2

General Airsoft / Interest in taking an airsoft "class"?

« on: January 10, 2016, 03:33:43 PM »

Hello all, So Go Airsoft and I have been working on something different to bring to the Springfield Airsoft community. What we are wanting is input from everyone on whether or not there is any interest. Our current idea is to offer an airsoft "class" which will cover different subjects that every airsofter should be knowledgeable on such as:

*Basic Maintenance for AEG and GBB
*Basic Malfunction Diagnosis/Solutions for AEG and GBB
*How an airsoft gun works
*How to tune a hop-up
*How to accessorize your gun
*How to set up your gear
*(Possibly) Basic Team Tactics
*And more

As of right now, we are looking at a $10 fee for the class, and will ask that you bring 1 AEG and 1 GBB (if you have one). If you have any ideas, feel free to pitch them down below, just keep in mind that this class will be designed for those who wish to gain a better understanding of their airsoft equipment in a basic format and relaxed environment. So no, I will not be teaching more complicated subjects (like dwell time or AOE). Let us know what you guys think!

3

Reviews / Krytac AEG series review

« on: January 10, 2016, 12:51:26 AM »

     Hello again, Mickey here. Time for another review, this time on the Krytac series of AEGs. I will be doing a specific review on my Krytac LVOA in the near future, I just want to use it and mess around with it more before I give my full opinion. So for now I will be focusing on the entire AEG line from Krytac, as I have had the chance to work on a few through So Go (mainly doing maintenance and spring changes). No other company puts in the amount of effort and technical expertise that Krytac does, both internally and externally. Since they all share the same internals, I'll focus on those first before going into what makes each model different. If you're on the fence about purchasing one for yourself, I can assure you that my review will tell you everything you need to know before making an informed purchase on the last AEG you will ever need.

     The gearbox is a make-or-break point for all AEGs. For this reason, Krytac has put an incredible amount of time into developing their Nautilus Ver. 2 gearbox which their entire AEG line shares. The first thing you will notice is the gold color of the shell. This is due to a treatment to the shell that reduces friction and prevents rust.

     A logical place to start when talking about a gearbox is, of course, the gears. Made from steel and robust in design, these gears are ready to handle a lot of stress and full-auto fire. They also incorporate a self-shimming design like VFC gears, but feature stronger springs to ensure durability and function (unlike VFC gears). The gears spin on 8mm Japanese caged steel bearings to give both strength and smooth travel even after tens of thousands of cycles.

     A notable component of the Krytac Nautilus gearbox is the wiring harness, something often overlooked and left untouched from Marui's ancient design. Krytac has gone through the trouble of giving the wire extra insulation in areas where it often gets damaged, installing a wire keep to prevent the pinion gear from tearing up the wiring, and including an in-line MOSFET! This will ensure that the gun's delicate electronics are protected from both abuse from the user and/or 11.1v batteries. Krytac's MOSFET sits in a cutout in the gearbox shell, rather than outside the gearbox. This means that you will have much more room for a battery in the buffer tube if you choose to go that route.

     Quick change spring guides have recently become a standard in airsoft. The convenience of changing an AEG's velocity without having to open the gearbox means that just about anyone can do it with a few tools and a little know-how. There is definitely a correct way, and an INCORRECT way to do a quick change spring system though. An example would be the older Classic Army design. The long screw securing the buffer tube to the lower receiver would screw into the spring guide like on a normal AEG. The problem with this, is that a quick change spring guide no longer has the support of the back of the gearbox shell, as it IS the back of the shell. Meaning that when the user tightens down on the buffer tube screw he or she would be pulling on the spring guide and potentially bend or break the tabs holding it in the gearbox. Krytac has solved this issue by having the buffer tube screw thread into the lower receiver itself rather than the spring guide. Simple solutions to complicated problems.

     I'll now move on to the piston and compression set. The piston itself features 4 metal teeth and and a reinforced polymer body with the second to last tooth removed. This has been done because the Nautilus gearbox comes pre-installed with a sorbothane pad on the cylinder head to correct the angle of engagement (AOE) between the piston pickup tooth and the sector gear. This is a modification that techs have been doing for years to prolong the life of their pistons and I am very happy to see it becoming a factory standard. Along with this, the seals on the piston/cylinder heads are airtight as can be (the cylinder head is very difficult to separate from the cylinder as a result). This results in a very consistent FPS output and therefore more consistent accuracy.

     Speaking of accuracy, the Krytac hop-up and barrel have hands-down the best design and performance of any stock AEG I have seen to date. This is thanks to the hop-up's design, as it is similar in function to upgraded units like the ProWin chamber. It features a large dial that directly moves the hop-up arm, giving the hop-up greater range of adjustment and better stability. It also has numbers on the adjustment wheel so that the user can remember where to adjust the wheel for different weights of BBs. The improved hop-up design paired with Krytac's stock 6.05 tight bore barrel has been giving me grouping and range comparable to a flat-hop modification.

     To further increase the longevity of the Nautilus gearbox, Krytac has gone the extra mile to radius the corners of the gearbox window to prevent fractures. This is another modification that techs have been doing for a while now to fix a problem with higher stress builds. As the piston comes forward and slams into the cylinder head, some of that energy is transferred to the gearbox shell and can lead to fractures if the shell is not reinforced or if the main spring is too powerful. By radiusing (rounding off) the corners of the shell window, the impact from the piston can be distributed instead of focused on a sharp corner. This paired with the stock sorbothane pad will ensure that this gearbox shell is unlikely to EVER fracture.

     To pull this impressive drive train, the Krytac gearbox needs a good motor. The 30K motor from Krytac is a Neodymium magnet 22 TPA monster that can pull very heavy springs well past the practical use for airsoft. My Krytac fires around 400 FPS with a .20g BB (this will vary between models) but still retains an incredibly snappy trigger response and a healthy ROF (around 22 BBs per second) on an 11.1v Lipo. Even at this blistering performance, the motor and all other electrical components remain cool due to proper shimming and part fitting from the factory.

     I'll finish up talking about the externals of the Krytac line-up. All models (excluding the LVOA) feature keymod handguards that are actually mil spec, meaning you can use real-steel keymod accessories unlike other airsoft handguards. They also include Krytac's custom battery stock (with the exception to the PDW and SDP) that maximizes battery space and has built in QD sling mount points. The selector switch assembly is ambidextrous for both right handed and left handed shooters with a much more simplistic design that makes it much easier for disassembly. Like many high-end AEGs, all Krytac guns come with a bolt catch to make it easier to adjust the hop-up. And all Krytacs have a full metal upper and lower receiver that is both light and strong with an equally robust metal 350 round high capacity magazine. The only real question you have to ask yourself at this point is "which model will I get?" Krytac offers several models from long-range to CQB in design (and even an LMG!). All models are available through So Go Airsoft in Black, Tan or OD Green (with the exception of the LVOA and LMG); with more models to come in the near future.

Krytac Trident SPR (16 inch barrel)

Krytac Trident CRB (10.5 inch barrel)

Krytac Trident PDW (5.5 inch barrel and PDW Stock)

Krytac Trident LMG (3500 Round Magazine included)

Other colors available for the CRB, SPR and PDW

Recently released Krytac LVOA-C licensed by Warsport Industries! Available at So Go Airsoft in Foliage Green

If you have any other questions, feel free to leave them down below. If you would like to pick up a Krytac and see what all the fuss is about for yourself, call So Go Airsoft as they deal directly through Krytac to get you the best deal and customer service. I will put Krytac's pricing list below to help you decide which model would be right for your budget. Thanks for reading, and be on the lookout for my review on the new LVOA-C in the near future!

Krytac PDW- $295
Krytac CRB- $325
Krytac SPR- $345
Krytac LVOA-C- $440
Krytac LMG- $500

4

General Airsoft / Krytac LVOA hype!

« on: November 30, 2015, 02:59:21 PM »

It's almost here! Estimated release is sometime in December, and the teaser photos look better than expected! Full trades and accurate color to the real LVOA

5

General Airsoft / Daytona Guns

« on: August 30, 2015, 12:40:03 PM »

Hey guys, Mickey again. I just realized nobody on the forums has ever mentioned Daytona guns, so I'm starting this thread to get some discussion going. Many of you are aware of what a Daytona gun is, but some may not so I will explain: A Daytona gun is a HPA (High Pressure Air) system that can be dropped into many different platforms. But unlike other HPA systems such as PolarStar or the SMP, Daytona guns have kick. More kick than most (if not all) GBB rifles on the market. Other than the benefit of adjustable FPS, the HPA system allows the rifle to have a very consistent FPS even on full-auto. So essentially the Daytona gun is the best of both worlds between HPA and GBB, allowing the shooter to all of the perks of HPA but with the added feedback and sound of a GBB rifle.

Currently (aside from custom builds) there are a few different kits for a Daytona gun available. M4, AK, G36, Scar, MSK, FAL and even the M249 are able to be outfitted with pre-made kits. Personally, I love the idea of a recoiling M249 and after seeing gameplay footage from one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd6ZXHRm1FA) I'm already making plans. It'll take a while to save up for the engine (around $475) but I feel it will be well worth it the first time I flip the selector to full-auto.



So has anyone dealt with Daytona guns before? Owned one, played with one, or been too afraid to peek a corner after hearing one? I'm really interested to see what everyone thinks.

6

Reviews / Matrix M240 Bravo

« on: August 10, 2015, 12:37:09 AM »

Hey guys, Mickey with So Go Airsoft here again. This review will be over the Matrix M240 Bravo, based on the medium machine gun utilized by U.S. armed forces since the late 1970's. The real-steel version has become an iconic firearm for America's military due to it's massive proportions, being over four feet long and weighing almost 30 pounds. There is a lot to cover with this brute, but I will try to keep it brief.



To start off, I would like to clear up some things about past and present M240s in the world of airsoft. I am doing this because there is a massive amount of misinformation (otherwise known as the internet) that leads buyers to believe that almost every airsoft gun is a re-brand of some sort. Aside from the absurdly rare Inokatsu, there are currently four incarnations of the M240 in airsoft today. You can list more than four brands that sell one, but they are all derived from the same four OEM platforms. The first is the original Trigger Happy M240, of which the others share it's design. Next came the Echo 1 (probably the best selling model of the four). S&T and JG (Golden Eagle) are the most recent companies to market their own M240, and are also the ones who actually get re-branded. The S&T is rebranded under names like Lancer Tactical while the JG is re-branded under the name Matrix.





 So there you have it, the Matrix M240 Bravo is made by JG. What does this mean? Simply put, this gun does not have all of the bells and whistles such as a MOSFET or tightbore barrel out of the box. What it does have is a beefy gearbox that is ready to handle tens of thousands of rounds without skipping a beat. It didn't take long for me to get into the gearbox and start poking and prodding, seeing what this gun is really made of. My first impressions were "This looks like a pretty standard JG to me" but it actually has a couple of features that aid in it's role as a machine gun. The gears appear to be Ver. 2/3 in design, but with thicker teeth that are less prone to breaking. To drive these beefy gears is a very high torque motor, meaning you can drop in a heavier spring if you wish to do so.

Out of the box, the gun comes with a M110-M120 spring (I couldn't tell which) and shoots about 400 FPS with a .20 gram BB. The rate of fire is perfect for a support role; at around 15 RPS on a large 9.6V battery, it sends enough plastic downrange to suppress other players without eating through your ammo too quickly. Speaking of which, the box magazine holds somewhere around 5000 BBS and can be removed/installed relatively easily. Simply lift up the feed tray and cover, disconnect the wire that powers the magazine, and lift the magazine up and off of the gun. Honestly the hardest part is connecting the wire and making sure you don't pinch it when closing the cover, which is why I choose to use 7.62 dummy rounds to secure the wire to the feed tray. Overall, I like the magazine design and it seems to feed well, though increasing the rate of fire will likely lead to misfeeds.


Note: The Matrix M240 does not come with dummy 7.62 belt


Next is the hop-up, which has a much better design than other machine guns on the market. It features a rotary dial and does not flip the nub on it's side like a typical M249 or M60 hop-up does. This is great, as it allows you to easily install a flat hop. The housing appears to be constructed from aluminum and locks into place nicely against the gearbox. Out of the box, the Matrix M240 could accurately hit targets between 125 and 150 feet away, but with a flat hop it can now shoot over 200 feet with ease.



Now I'll delve into the external construction of the Matrix M240. Most of the gun is aluminum, with some smaller pieces being steel. It features an iconic metal bipod that can only be described as robust, which can be folded and locked into place when not being used. The polymer parts include the carry handle, stock, pistol grip panels, and heat shield. Because of it's construction and sheer size, the gun weighs in at around 19 pounds fully loaded. For the most part the gun is solid, though there is some wobble on the pistol grip and the heat shield. This isn't really an issue as I've been told that these parts are wobbly on the real M240 as well. Overall the externals are fantastic, though I hear a lot of gripe about the constructions of the magazine. True, it's cardboard appearance is not what you would expect. It's honestly kind of hard to vouch for anything on a firearm being cardboard, but it's not by any means flimsy. With a thick nylon casing and a metal interior, the magazine actually feels pretty hefty and rigid. The real M240 actually has a cardboard magazine as well, though from what I can tell most users will ditch the magazine and wrap an ammo belt around themselves to distribute the weight more evenly. Can't blame them, as the magazine hangs entirely off the left side of the weapon.

Lastly, I will share my complaints with the Matrix M240. Most are minor (such as loose screws being present out of the box) but my biggest point of concern is with the stock. It is somewhat thin towards the middle, forcing me to be more careful with it. It is the only part on the entire gun that I can envision breaking if I took a nasty fall with it. The good news is that Echo 1 sells parts for their M240, meaning I can replace anything that breaks on mine since they are cross-compatible. The only other flaw I have seen with this gun has to do with the magazine. Since it is powered by the same battery that powers the motor, the magazine only winds up while the gun is being fired. This is great from a realism standpoint, as you don't have to manually wind the magazine or wait for it to autowind based on tension. The downside is that after installing the magazine you must dry fire the M240 for 4-5 seconds so that ammo will travel a few inches from the magazine to the hop-up via a feed tube. This can be remedied by using a speed loader to preemptively fill the feed tube with BBS before installing the magazine, though I hope that this can be avoided entirely on future models.


Note: The Matrix M240 comes with a large Tamiya connector, I chose to change it to deans as shown in the picture


In conclusion, I would highly recommend the Matrix M240 to anyone who wants an absolutely over-the-top monstrosity to take with them to their next skirmish. The M240 is... obnoxious in a good way? I look forward to pushing its limits at Operation Rebel Yell III in October, after which I will be sure to post an after action report. Until then, I think I have said all I can say about the Matrix M240, but if you have any questions in the meantime feel free to leave them below. If you are interested in buying on yourself, be sure to get in contact with So Go Airsoft where I purchased mine. Thanks for reading!

7

General Airsoft / War Sport Industries LVOA

« on: January 11, 2015, 04:22:31 PM »

Forums have been kinda quiet lately, thought I'd try to get some discussions going.

So I was browsing YouTube and came across an interesting style of rifle that is starting to catch on in both the airsoft and real-steel market.




The War Sport Industries LVOA was designed to reduce muzzle flash and provide a sleek, modernized platform for the modern shooter. The intent was to make a rifle that would produce a muzzle flash that would not interfere with night vision optics as well as allowing for "Next Generation" accessories. Basically, this rifle is Chris Costa's dreamgun.

Speaking of...


Though it shares most parts with the M4 platform, this system has a certain quality to it that separates it from the rest and has gotten it attention from shooters worldwide. Copies of this system can already be seen in airsoft, such as GBBRs that have been customized with real-steel LVOA handguards (you may recognize the shooter as Chris "Hollywood" from WarFighter Airsoft)



But if GBBRs aren't your thing, rumor has it that Krytac has secured a license agreement with War Sport Industries to produce an airsoft replica of the full LVOA rifle. Release date is TBA, but I'm sure we'll start seeing these as they become more and more prevalent on the market. So what are your thoughts on this new weapon? Innovation at its best or "Tacti-Cool" gone too far? I'd like to hear your thoughts



 

8

Reviews / Classic Army KAC Stoner LMG

« on: November 25, 2014, 06:24:30 PM »

Hey guys, Mickey again. Just when I thought I was over airsoft LMG's, Classic Army decides to finally release their long-awaited Stoner LMG...

Introduction

The Stoner LMG (also known as the Stoner 99) is one of Eugene Stoner's last designs before he passed away. It is a belt-fed, gas operated LMG produced currently by Knight's Armament Company. Like it's real-steel counterpart, the Classic Army Stoner LMG is strictly full-auto, no single fire without the use of a MOSFET. It takes the same box magazine as an M249, though it does not accept M4 magazines. Both the airsoft version and the real Stoner have a low ROF (around 550 RPM) leaving some people wondering; Just what DOES the Stoner bring to the table?

The answer, weight.

The Stoner LMG weighs in at a feathery 10 pounds, 40% lighter than the M249! If you don't think that you could ever be a SAW gunner, think again. The ultra-light profile of this weapon makes it the lightest in it's class.

Construction

Despite coming in at only 10 pounds, there is hardly any plastic on the Stoner. The only plastic part is the pistol grip (if you don't count the included box magazine and TangoDown rail covers). According to the distributor's website the rest of the gun is composed of aluminum and *some* steel. Overall the gun is surprisingly solid, with the only wobble being on the butt of the stock and the outer barrel (which can be removed with the push of a lever). The 1200 round box magazine is almost identical to previous models from Classic Army, though it does not have the same feed tube mechanism because of the way it attaches to the receiver. The one included with the gun is tan, though CA offers spare box mags in other colors/patterns. To top off the feel of the gun Classic Army has included TangoDown style rail covers that have a nice texture and are easy to slide on/off the rails.

Features

Externals
While the Stoner is not a complete redesign of the LMG, it does have some features worth mentioning. The stock has 6 positions and can be easily removed. The barrel can also be removed quickly with a lever at the base of the barrel. This is how you access the internal battery compartment, though you can also run a PEQ box which is what I chose to do. Moving to the receiver you can see that the feed tray cover is different than an M249, as it is much shorter. The remaining length of the top of the receiver is used for a picatinny rail; this way you don't throw off your optic when you flip up the feed tray. The receiver also featured Licensed Knight's Armament Trademarks.

Internals
The hop-up system of the Stoner LMG is identical to the M249 hop-up, so hop-up upgrades are a must for this gun. The gearbox is not in any way like an M249's though, as I have yet to see any other gearbox like this one. It somewhat resembles a Version 6 without the motor cage (since the motor is housed in the grip). Luckily the gearbox is Version 2 compatible, so no need to worry about finding spare parts for it. The trigger assembly features an electronic switch rather than the traditional AEG contacts, meaning that you *should* be able to run a Lipo without running the risk of burning something up. The last note-worthy part of the gearbox is the quick-change spring guide, though the upper receiver has to be removed to access it.

Performance

As mentioned earlier, the gun comes stock with a M249 style hop-up chamber and a low rate of fire. These two factors can leave the shooter disappointed at both the range and quickness of the Stoner LMG, despite chrono-ing at almost 400 FPS. To remedy this, I replaced the stock CA torque-up gears with SHS 16:1 high speed gears and upgraded the hop-up and barrel. After installing a prometheus 6.03 tight bore, maple leaf bucking, and a M249 hop-up fix I saw much better groupings and range (around 150 feet) at over 20 bbs per second (on an 11.1 Lipo). I am disappointed that the gun took as much work as it did to meet my requirements, but it was well worth it in the end. My next step is to replace the compression set with SHS parts so that I can squeeze a little more FPS out of this setup.


Before I ramble on too much about my love for this LMG, I'll quickly finish up by saying that this AEG is well worth it if you are willing to put in some extra cash to make it perform to it's true potential. If you are looking for an LMG that isn't going to break your back, or one that is simply different than every other SAW on the field then the Stoner LMG by Classic Army would be a great option, though the price is pretty typical for an LMG at around $400. If you have any questions or comments feel free to leave them below.

9

Reviews / Elite Force (VFC) GBB UMP

« on: November 18, 2014, 05:36:58 PM »

I'll probably do a written review at some point, but here's a video review in the meantime:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=tY3ME4KWKUU

10

General Airsoft / So Go Airsoft now carrying SHS parts

« on: September 11, 2014, 11:08:05 AM »

Just thought you guys would like to know, So Go is now carrying SHS upgrade parts. For those of you that are unaware SHS is known for making very high quality products at a very cheap price (especially compared to others on the market). Gears, pistons/piston heads, tappet plates, bearings, motors, cylinder/cylinder head, etc (basically all parts of a gearbox) are now available through So Go Airsoft. I've already got some parts for my Stoner LMG on order

11

General Airsoft / *Finished* Lone Survivor Build (MK12 SPR)

« on: July 09, 2014, 10:06:48 PM »

     Hey guys, Mickey here. Now that I've finished my last couple of builds and currently have a solid gun for both indoor and outdoor gameplay, I've been toying around with the idea of building a DMR (Designated Marksman Rifle). While serving the purpose of looking cool as hell, it will also give me a spare outdoor rifle in the case of gun failure on the field. I can tell you from experience that having your only gun fail at an op really sucks (especially if you drove a long way to get there). So before OP: IronClad in September I'm hoping to have a pretty decent spare rifle built.
     There are plenty of options for a DMR on the market currently; but I like to go the custom route. My initial thoughts were to "pimp out" an HK417 or some other 7.62 variant, but I came to realize that I could make the build much cheaper if I went with an M4 platform (magazines and such). I hadn't quite decided how to start my build until a couple of weeks ago when I re-watched the movie Lone Survivor. Something about the rifle used by Marcus Luttrel (Mark Wahlberg) caught my attention. It turns out that the rifle used in the movie is a version of the MK12 SPR (the movie replica resembles a MOD 1). A few google searches showed me that pretty much all of the parts on the rifle have airsoft counterparts; with the exception of the Rockriver pistol grip showed in the movie (an LMT grip is present in pictures of Luttrel himself, of which there is an airsoft version available). Even the exact suppressor model is available from King Arms! I think I've found my next project (Heck, I might even paint it like the one from the film ).
     So what are you thoughts on this kind of build? Are you a fan of DMRs or do you think they're ineffective in airsoft regardless of FPS rules? Feel free to leave any questions or comments below.

SEAL Team 10


Luttel (Wahlberg) and his MK12


Build Layout


Planned Build List:
Base Gun: Classic Army Colt M4 (Quick Change Spring)
Scope: G&P M1 Scope
Bipod: Replica Harris Bipod (9''-13'')
Stock: A2 Style (Full) Stock
Grip: LMT Pistol Grip
PEQ: G&P PEQ-2 CREE LED
RIS/Barrel: Echo 1 MK12 Kit w/SPR Flash Hider
Gas Block: G&P Low-Profile CNC Gas Block
Iron Sights: Replica KAC Flip-up front and rear sights
Suppressor: King Arms Ops 12th Model Suppressor for SPR Flash Hider
Gearbox: Custom, 450 FPS w/.20 gram
Motor: Lonex A2 High Torque
Hop-up: ProWin w/Flat Hop
Inner Barrel: Prometheus 6.03 Tightbore (509mm)

12

Reviews / SpecterDR Replica

« on: June 30, 2014, 10:05:16 PM »

     Hey guys, just thought I'd put up a quick review on my replica Elcan SpecterDR scope. This particular model is manufactured under the name Phantom and is available for special order through So Go Airsoft. For those of you not familiar with the SpecterDR, it is a specialized riflescope manufactured by Elcan and is utilized by SOCOM (among other military forces). The design of the SpecterDR allows the user to switch the optic between 1 and 4 times magnification with the flip of a switch; this is perfect for areas of operation that incorporate both buildings and open areas, as it gives the user the option between a magnified reticle and what is essentially a red dot sight (the reticle has 11 brightness settings, similar to a red dot).
     A few factors went into my decision to buy this particular replica as there are several companies that manufacture clones of their own, each bringing their own pros and cons to the table. You may have seen the G&G version which costs around $200. My initial intention was to buy the G&G but sadly the reviews do not reflect its high price tag (mainly the use of cheap build materials and poor eye relief). Other versions are plagued by significant inconsistencies to the real Elcan and questionable reliability. Further research showed that the Phantom model (while not perfect) gave me the best "bang for my buck". The eye relief is much shorter than the real optic, but is manageable. Build quality seems sturdy (no foreseeable complaints at the moment); though I did have to use shims to get it to mount on tight. This issue probably stems from my particular RIS's specs though, as other fellow airsofters I know who have purchased this scope have seen little to no issues with the mounting platform. My only real complaint about the sight is the position of its "doctor sight" mount. It's at an angle as opposed to its traditional position on the top of the scope; this is a minor complaint though, and may actually be a way of selling this clone in the US without copyright violation. Apart from what I have mentioned so far, keep in mind that this piece adds a bit of weight to your kit as well. It's definitely not the lightest scope out there, staying true to the real thing.
     My overall opinion on the Phantom replica SpecterDR is that it makes a great addition to any build not only in looks, but functionality as well. While the price tag of $140 sounds high for an airsoft scope, simply consider that the real Elcan version runs well over $2,000. If you have any questions or comments about this scope feel free to leave them below; once again these are available for special order from So Go Airsoft, just give them a call at 417-719-4749 or come in person to place your order. Thanks for reading!

Video Review: http://youtu.be/yFGpAYtmIog

13

Reviews / Matching Builds

« on: April 30, 2014, 06:33:50 PM »

Hey guys, just finishing up on a couple of matching builds. The first is my MK18 MOD1 based on my KWA LM4C (built for indoor gameplay). My next build is my M4A1 SOPMOD Block II based on a Classic Army ProLine M4 (w/Quick Change Spring, built for outdoor gameplay). The Block II is not quite finished as I'm going to add an Elcan SpecterDR Scope and an AFG, along with matching flash hiders for both rifles; so be sure to keep an eye out for updated pictures in the near future.
     And yes you read right, the new generation CA ProLine M4 has a quick change spring. When I was debating on what kind of gun to use for my build I had narrowed it down to G&P or Classic Army. The quick change spring was pretty much the deciding factor, as both CA and G&P are known for their reliability and smooth performance. The only upgrades I'm looking into are those to increase accuracy and range (i.e. precision barrel and hop-up assembly). Despite having the quick change spring and a full metal body, the price was very reasonable at around $230 (through So Go Airsoft). Feel free to post any questions or comments below.

MK18 MOD1 Build List:                            SOPMOD Block II Build List:
          Base Gun: KWA LM4C                               Base Gun: Classic Army ProLine M4
Daniel Defense RIS II 9.5''                                 Daniel Defense RIS II 12''
Magpul CTR Stock                                              Magpul ACS Stock
Magpul MIAD Pistol Grip                                     Magpul MOE Pistol Grip
   Magpul MBUS                                                 KAC Flip-Up Sights
Magpul Ladder Rail Covers                                  Magpul Ladder Rail Covers

14

General Airsoft / Flashlights?

« on: April 10, 2014, 03:26:10 PM »

    In any environment a flashlight can quickly prove its worth. Whether you're playing in CQB, field or a mix of both, the pros far outweigh the cons in my opinion. Along with the obvious benefits of lighting up dark spaces and just giving your gun a more "Tacti-Cool" look, they have an airsoft-specific function: lighting up bbs as they are flying through the air, showing the user a precise representation of the bbs' path towards its target. But with a plethora of options on the market ranging anywhere from miniature pistol lights to heavy rifle flashlights , it can leave you feeling unsure of just which one to run and how to use it. What I'm hoping to accomplish with this thread is to get some ideas out there on what does and doesn't work.
    I have been doing a lot of tinkering with my flashlight setup lately and have even switched lights altogether a couple of times. Finally I have found  a setup that is comfortable and that allows me to actuate my light with ease. My light of choice is the VFC V3X w/Pressure Pad mounted on top. This allows me to reach the pressure pad from either side pretty easily, as I use the Magpul "Thumb over top" hold with AR platforms (Real-Steel and Airsoft). As you may notice, my Magpul XTM Rail Panels actually feature little grasps to hold on to excess wiring, keeping my whole setup nice and neat.
    So how do you run your flashlight/laser setup? Feel free to post your own setups below.

15

General Airsoft / YouTube Channel

« on: March 27, 2014, 09:22:39 PM »

Hey guys, I started up a YouTube channel. I plan on doing primarily reviews/first impression videos on guns/gear as well as gameplay videos. My channel is still very small with less than 5 subscribers so any support is appreciated! Of course if you have no interest in my videos then don't subscribe, no hard feelings. Thanks!

My Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/master200043